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My son has a 2010 Dodge Charger. He was in a head on collision and, after 3 months, he finally got his car back from the body shop. When I picked up his car, he had a check engine light (O2 sensor) on that was not on before the accident. Two weeks later, all or almost all of warning lights are on. Other than being a piece of shit Chrysler that needs to be gotten rid of, what is your arm chair diagnosis of the issue?

Google suggests that it could be the alternator or an issue with the charging system.

Was there any engine damage in the accident? If so, what parts were replaced?

Reservoir Dog wrote: ↑Mon Jun 20, 2022 1:30 pm Was there any engine damage in the accident? If so, what parts were replaced?

Not sure off the top of my head. I will have to pull up the estimate and see.

there there was a check engine light code that was going to be voted "Most Popular" it would be the O2 Sensor.

Off the top of my head, it sounds like the ECM has gone bonkers.

You may have to take it in, have them plug into it and see what codes come up.

When the car is running does it sound right? What color is the exhaust? Hold a Kleenex or a paper towel over the exhaust pipe (with the engine at operating temperature) and check to see if there's any fuel or oil or coolant on it.

Animal wrote: ↑Mon Jun 20, 2022 2:06 pm there there was a check engine light code that was going to be voted "Most Popular" it would be the O2 Sensor.

It's ALWAYS the O2 sensor.

The O2 warning light is no big deal, but having all the other ones go off doesn't sound good. Does sound electrical. Maybe just have them clear the vehicle's computer of the warnings and see if they pop back on. Armchair diagnostic at best.

CentralTexasCrude wrote: ↑Mon Jun 20, 2022 2:22 pm The O2 warning light is no big deal, but having all the other ones go off doesn't sound good. Does sound electrical. Maybe just have them clear the vehicle's computer of the warnings and see if they pop back on. Armchair diagnostic at best.

that's exactly what my advice would be. Unhook the battery for about 10 minutes and then hook it back up.

Code readers are cheap. Buy one. Clear them out and see how long it takes to get them back.

I used love Hondas. We’re it not for their gimpy automatic transmissions id still be driving them. Seeing the orange ECT light was worse than getting a letter from the tax authorities.

Low blinker fluid

Animal wrote: ↑Mon Jun 20, 2022 2:24 pm

CentralTexasCrude wrote: ↑Mon Jun 20, 2022 2:22 pm The O2 warning light is no big deal, but having all the other ones go off doesn't sound good. Does sound electrical. Maybe just have them clear the vehicle's computer of the warnings and see if they pop back on. Armchair diagnostic at best.

that's exactly what my advice would be. Unhook the battery for about 10 minutes and then hook it back up.

All I know is whatever Engineer came up with the "check Engine" warning light should have been taken around back and shot many years ago.

Dunno about that. With a a code reader it can be simple
To diagnose and repair simple problems.

Like bad 02 or mass air sensor problems. I had one diagnose a faulty thermostat.

As I predicted, the body shop blew us off. We are taking it to our mechanic tomorrow to have him run diagnostics.

Whackov wrote: ↑Mon Jun 20, 2022 6:23 pm As I predicted, the body shop blew us off. We are taking it to our mechanic tomorrow to have him run diagnostics.

meanwhile, unhook the battery and see if it clears the codes out of the computer. that's really not as unusual of a problem as you might think. especially after they come out of the shop.

Animal wrote: ↑Mon Jun 20, 2022 6:39 pm

Whackov wrote: ↑Mon Jun 20, 2022 6:23 pm As I predicted, the body shop blew us off. We are taking it to our mechanic tomorrow to have him run diagnostics.

meanwhile, unhook the battery and see if it clears the codes out of the computer. that's really not as unusual of a problem as you might think. especially after they come out of the shop.

Yeah, this is really good idea. Like Animal said, unhook it for 10-15 minutes. May clear your problem so you don't have to pay for your mechanic to check it out.

Clear the codes. Check battery voltage and connection’s. Check belt and belt tension.

Animal wrote: ↑Mon Jun 20, 2022 2:06 pm there there was a check engine light code that was going to be voted "Most Popular" it would be the O2 Sensor.

I beg to differ. IMHO it would be "evap leak" (either large or small)...

Animal wrote: ↑Mon Jun 20, 2022 6:39 pm

Whackov wrote: ↑Mon Jun 20, 2022 6:23 pm As I predicted, the body shop blew us off. We are taking it to our mechanic tomorrow to have him run diagnostics.

meanwhile, unhook the battery and see if it clears the codes out of the computer. that's really not as unusual of a problem as you might think. especially after they come out of the shop.

Trying this. After 5 minutes of fucking around to find the hood latch release, I quickly realized that the battery was in the trunk and not under the hood. PoS Chrysler.

Blinker fluid spilled on the battery cable. Happens a lot in front end crashes.

WarmBidetWater wrote: ↑Mon Jun 20, 2022 7:28 pm

Animal wrote: ↑Mon Jun 20, 2022 2:06 pm there there was a check engine light code that was going to be voted "Most Popular" it would be the O2 Sensor.

I beg to differ. IMHO it would be "evap leak" (either large or small)...

Yeah sometimes it’s just a janky gas cap.

Charliesheen wrote: ↑Mon Jun 20, 2022 10:07 pm

WarmBidetWater wrote: ↑Mon Jun 20, 2022 7:28 pm

Animal wrote: ↑Mon Jun 20, 2022 2:06 pm there there was a check engine light code that was going to be voted "Most Popular" it would be the O2 Sensor.

I beg to differ. IMHO it would be "evap leak" (either large or small)...

Yeah sometimes it’s just a janky gas cap.

This isn’t the first for the O2 sensor and we have replaced the gas cap.

Whackov wrote: ↑Mon Jun 20, 2022 8:55 pm

Animal wrote: ↑Mon Jun 20, 2022 6:39 pm

Whackov wrote: ↑Mon Jun 20, 2022 6:23 pm As I predicted, the body shop blew us off. We are taking it to our mechanic tomorrow to have him run diagnostics.

meanwhile, unhook the battery and see if it clears the codes out of the computer. that's really not as unusual of a problem as you might think. especially after they come out of the shop.

Trying this. After 5 minutes of fucking around to find the hood latch release, I quickly realized that the battery was in the trunk and not under the hood. PoS Chrysler.

Did this down to 4 warning lights……….at least until the check engine light comes on again.

I'd start checking grounds. If any of the front end parts.were replaced (structural), they may not have replaced, or properly cleaned, the grounding straps and connections.

Whackov wrote: ↑Mon Jun 20, 2022 10:26 pm

Whackov wrote: ↑Mon Jun 20, 2022 8:55 pm

Animal wrote: ↑Mon Jun 20, 2022 6:39 pm

Whackov wrote: ↑Mon Jun 20, 2022 6:23 pm As I predicted, the body shop blew us off. We are taking it to our mechanic tomorrow to have him run diagnostics.

meanwhile, unhook the battery and see if it clears the codes out of the computer. that's really not as unusual of a problem as you might think. especially after they come out of the shop.

Trying this. After 5 minutes of fucking around to find the hood latch release, I quickly realized that the battery was in the trunk and not under the hood. PoS Chrysler.

Did this down to 4 warning lights……….at least until the check engine light comes on again.

I really do wish you would list engine parts/ repairs that shop did. May trigger a "Aha" moment from some of the members here who are really experts with vehicles.

quit dickin' around and take to the dealership for a complete electronics check.Unless you are going to buy a $500. code reader ,save your money,a dealers diagnostic check is more complex than any $30. Amazon code reader can do.